Overview
Paris rewards the unhurried traveller. Beyond the queues at the Eiffel Tower lies a city of covered passages, canal-side cafés, and neighbourhood markets that change character street by street. This guide collects the local knowledge that makes the difference between a good trip and a great one.
Getting there & around
- CDG / Orly airports — RER B from CDG (30–40 min) is the cheapest route into the centre. Avoid taxis during peak hours; the meter will run.
- Transit app — Download the RATP app or Citymapper for live metro/bus info. Tap-to-pay on Navigo contactless works with Mastercard/Visa since 2023.
- Vélib’ bikes — The city bike-share covers every arrondissement. The app shows real-time dock availability.
- Walking — Paris’s arrondissements spiral outward from the 1st; you can walk between most central neighbourhoods in under 25 minutes.
Neighbourhoods
| Neighbourhood | Vibe | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Le Marais (3e/4e) | Trendy, historic | Galleries, LGBTQ+ scene, falafel on Rue des Rosiers |
| Saint-Germain (6e) | Literary, elegant | Café culture, bookshops, Jardin du Luxembourg |
| Montmartre (18e) | Bohemian, hilly | Artists, vineyard, Sacré-Cœur views at dusk |
| Canal Saint-Martin (10e) | Hip, local | Vintage shops, brunch spots, weekend markets |
| Belleville (20e) | Multicultural | Street art, cheap eats, panoramic city views |
| Oberkampf (11e) | Nightlife | Bars, live music, late-night crêpes |
Food & drink
- Croissants — Pierre Hermé (6e), Du Pain et des Idées (10e), Jacques Genin (3e). Taste the difference a croissant made with good butter makes.
- Bistros — Avoid restaurants with laminated menus in 6 languages near major attractions. Walk one block further; prices drop and quality rises.
- Markets — Marché d’Aligre (12e, Tue–Sun) for seasonal produce and olives; Marché des Enfants Rouges (3e) for hot food at communal tables.
- Wine — A glass of wine at a zinc bar (comptoir) is always cheaper than at a table. Say “un verre de rouge/blanc/rosé” and you’ll pay 3–5 €.
- Coffee — Third-wave cafés are everywhere in the 10e/11e. Ob-la-di, Ten Belles, Coutume.
Museums & culture
- Book major museums (Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Versailles) online 2–4 weeks ahead — timed entry sold out quickly.
- The Paris Museum Pass (2, 4, or 6 days) covers 50+ museums — worth it if you plan 3+ sites per day.
- Free first Sunday — Many national museums are free on the first Sunday of the month; expect crowds.
- The Centre Pompidou closes Tuesday; the Musée d’Orsay closes Monday. Plan accordingly.
Practical tips
- Most restaurants open for lunch 12:00–14:30 and dinner 19:30–22:00; turning up at 15:00 means rejection or a very long wait.
- Tap water (l’eau du robinet) is safe and free — ask for “une carafe d’eau” at any restaurant.
- Tipping is not expected but rounding up or leaving 1–2 € on the table is appreciated.
- Pharmacies (green cross) sell medication without a prescription and staff often speak English.
- Carry a light layer — Paris weather is capricious; a compact umbrella earns its weight.